Ali Eteraz. By Ali Eteraz
Ali Eteraz is a writer and lawyer. He has lived in the Caribbean, Pakistan, the Middle East, and the US. His personal website is here.
Posted in women | Comments (12)

Living Las Vegas

Las Vegas only makes an impression if you don’t look past the illusion. Peek beyond the veil that the corporations have cast and its nothing more than a series of asphalt lanes and bus routes. For a tourist it bears the promise of endless pleasure, salivating strippers, heaving hedonism.

For a resident, on the other hand, Las Vegas is the fat black guy with dreads who spends his day time in the bookstore discussing politics (with a guy carrying a briefcase too big for his body) and at night moves to the 24 hour café; playing chess against the bespectacled white guy called “The Tutor” who makes his living hanging out in the university library, getting hired by students to do their homework.

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The real Las Vegas is the stripper named “Ana” who came from Texas three years ago because her parents are dead and she is putting her sister through college.

Las Vegas is the cocktail waitress in an all-too-revealing sarong whose bedside is littered with French novels, Foreign Affairs magazine and books no longer in print.

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Las Vegas is the two Mexican sisters, one a waitress the other a babysitter, both of whom barely speak a word of English, going out to a small lounge in a forgotten strip club to hang out… with one another.

Las Vegas is the landlord at the end of “crack alley” who keeps trying to rent his space out to 99-cent stores, only to find that they fold within a month or two and leave without paying rent.

Black Dawn movie download Las Vegas is the three people that know what Darfur is and meet in a grocery store to discuss how to organize a rally in order to create awareness.

When I first arrived in Vegas, I went to every single show the city has to offer: Cirque du soleil, Spamalot, The Producers, the vast panopoly of magic shows, the dance shows, the concerts. Within a few weeks I was struck by the complete and utter lack of melancholy in the city. I wanted to find something Shakesperean, I said to my friend. I wanted to encounter some tragedy, I added. I did not want to be made to feel that life was the act of a stage host picking you out of a crowd and bringing you onto the stage to participate in a magic trick. I knew life was more, even here in Las Vegas. So, I searched for it. I went looking for pathos.

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Long drives in the middle of the night through silent streets; early morning forays into an empty gaming hall where a blind Chinese woman tells you to get up from the one stool you are sitting on because she has a good feeling about that particular slot machine; afternoons of shooting pool with a bunch of “service industry professionals” after they have worked the graveyard shift; the fifty Latino kids in the evening filling out the tiny pool using lawn chairs as flotation devices; the cab driver coming home at five a.m.; being woken up by some old guy throwing rocks at your window – in all of these things I found the pathos I was looking for.

Las Vegas is not an illusion. It is a place where people live.

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9 Comments

  1. NK
    Posted November 17, 2007 at 10:59 am | Permalink

    Brilliant writing. What a great addition to the site.

  2. Muse
    Posted November 17, 2007 at 12:16 pm | Permalink

    You haven’t written like this in a while. Didn’t realize how much I missed that until I read this!

  3. reader
    Posted November 17, 2007 at 9:57 pm | Permalink

    love it.

  4. Posted November 21, 2007 at 7:19 am | Permalink

    Muse is right. Brilliant!

  5. Buzz Kill
    Posted November 21, 2007 at 12:41 pm | Permalink

    Seedy and poetic. What a crazy place and how totally representative of the United States’s current *bathos.*

    No pretention of class or sophistication beyond a base and sleasy LCD. The Bellagio is an ostentatious show of crap. A Shock and Awe assault on the trailer set.

    The fancy restaurants and the tuxedos and the french canadian circus. In a silly way, Las Vegas is taking itself way too seriously.

    Entertainment in general has become a kind of cancer.

  6. Buzz Kill
    Posted November 21, 2007 at 12:53 pm | Permalink

    May we all aspire to our highest pussy cat dolls and dudes potential.

  7. Posted November 21, 2007 at 8:27 pm | Permalink

    And I thought Hunter Thompson was dead :)

    Great writing!

  8. Posted November 25, 2007 at 2:31 am | Permalink

    ALi Eteraz wrote “Las Vegas is the three people that know what Darfur is and meet in a grocery store to discuss how to organize a rally in order to create awareness.”

    Before these people can spread awareness, they first have to educate themselves about what is going on in Darfur. I would suggest they start learning about it here
    http://www.blackagendareport.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=447&Itemid=1

  9. Abu Sinan
    Posted November 30, 2007 at 2:43 pm | Permalink

    Interesting. When I was a teenager we had a lot of friends from Vegas.

    For US Vegas was about partying, but ducking behind concrete walls when cars came from a certain direction. Cars from that direction always did drive bys.

    Vegas was having chicken wire over your windows so someone couldnt walk up and thrown molotov cocktails through them.

    Vegas was about the Metro (police) giving you a hard time and maybe kicking your ass every once in a while just to remind you who was boss.

3 Trackbacks

  1. By Life in Las Vegas « Ali Eteraz on November 21, 2007 at 3:59 am

    [...] essay, Living Las Vegas, is now up at Global Comment where I have become a regular columnist. When I first arrived in [...]

  2. By Good Reads « Natalia Antonova on November 22, 2007 at 4:10 am

    [...] Good Reads Jump to Comments Alie Eteraz has been a bad boy (or good boy? You never can tell) in Las Vegas. [...]

  3. By Open Thread « Ali Eteraz on November 23, 2007 at 4:34 am

    [...] Jewcy’s The Cabal. I really love me when I write like this. Be sure to check out my piece on Living Las Vegas if you haven’t [...]

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