Every Monday on Global Comment, we share Something Special you don’t want to miss. To fit with the six core pillars of the magazine, these will alternate between the themes of watch / listen / read / see / taste / place.
It will be something different every week, but it will always be about something worth seeing, hearing or watching, or a place worth visiting or a food worth tasting.
This week, the joy of a negative Jay Rayner restaurant review. Few things are as gratifying on a Sunday morning than Jay Rayner being scathing about an overly expensive restaurant that turns out to be showy and pretentious but terrible.
A few weeks ago, he reviewed Hot Dogs by Three Darlings in Harrods in London, and… well, just read this snippet:
Online, before my visit, an ice-cream sundae was £9. Now it’s £12. Well, of course it is. It’s advertised as a “S’more” sundae. A S’more is a big fat square of marshmallow toasted until brown and bubbling, then squidged between graham crackers with a slab of chocolate. We watch as the server gets out a meagre handful of tiny marshmallows like mini dental swabs, sparks up a blow torch for a few seconds until most are barely warm, then chucks them into a coupe with scoops of ice-cream, a mini flake and one of those ice-cream van fan wafers. It is the words “can’t be bothered” fashioned out of sugar and cream.
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