While many parts of the world turn white for most of the winter, the island of La Palma in Spain does it for a day during its carnival… but in warm weather.
Snow is not the reason for La Palma turning white. Instead, it’s talcum powder, which lingers in the air and on the cobblestone streets, reminding us that in Europe there are also unique and fun ways to celebrate carnival.
Undoubtedly, Brazil has the most famous carnival in the world but, if you want to stay in Europe, an excellent option is the island of Palma in Spain, where the carnival extends for almost two weeks.
Days without clock-watching
I lived on the island during the carnival of 2023, a moment that signified the restarting of these celebrations after the pandemic and the eruption of the volcano that stained part of the island with tragedy and ashes.
Therefore, 2023 was a special time for the locals, who prepare every year to receive thousands of tourists during the carnival days.
The streets of Santa Cruz de la Palma, which are usually crowded with tourists from cruise ships, multiply the pedestrians who go to forget the cold of winter and enjoy days of festivities without watching the clock. This is the biggest high season of the island, which means a lot for a town that lives on tourism.
An extended carnival
In La Palma it is impossible to celebrate only Monday and Tuesday of carnival (on 3rd and 4th March this year), the fun is extended, with activities for children and adults, for a couple of weeks.
But there are definitely some days that stand out from others — even making people forget to sleep.
While some only celebrate in parades and concerts, others prepare for Holy Week with religious walks such as the procession of the virgin from one of the highest points of the capital. This pilgrimage marks on the calendar the last days of parties before calmer times 40 days later.
Wigs and colored talcum powder
One of the most fun days is the Friday before the carnival weekend. The party with DJs in different parts of Santa Cruz starts early in the afternoon and ends the next day with concerts on a big stage on Maritima Avenue, in front of the beach.
For this party, the wigs play a central role. Although you can wear any conventional wig, the boldest attendees make the most eccentric, original and wild wigs that look like an end-of-the-year school project (it probably takes them an entire year to create these works of art).
The next day, you must go to another town, Los Llanos de Aridane, because the party is not reserved only for Santa Cruz de la Palma. There, wigs are transformed into full costumes and people throw colorful talcum powder at each other, turning the town into an eternal colorful party.
The long-awaited day of carnival: Los Indianos
You won’t find a more original way to celebrate carnival in the world. This is the peak day for tourism on the island, because nobody wants to miss it.
So, make a note of the day: it is always celebrated on Carnival Monday and extends until Tuesday morning.
The tradition pays homage to the island’s Spanish migrants who returned from Cuba, and other places like Venezuela, flaunting the riches obtained in the new world. To relive the moment, everyone dresses in white from head to toe in period costumes, while dancing salsa in the streets.
One of the funniest attractions is the white talcum powder. No one escapes the talcum powder shower that starts early in the morning with Los Indianos parade and doesn’t stop all day. After the party you will need a deep bath to remove the talc from your scalp, face, hair and skin.
But in the moment, just enjoy it.
There is not just one meeting point, so be prepared to walk if you want to see it all. The streets are closed and crowded with people, DJs and music shows, along with stands selling sugar cane juice and mojitos.
Just forget about the beach that day. It is closed to avoid damage and environmental problems.
The day of the sardines
If you think the party ends on Shrove Tuesday, you’re wrong. Although they are not such big celebrations, you can enjoy other parades the following days.
One quite unique parade features the sardine as the main character.
Bands from all over the island accompany a sardine-shaped carriage that, at its last stop, hands out free fried sardines, because people don’t only dance on the island, they also eat delicious food.
Carnival is not always an important celebration in many cultures, but after spending some time on the island you will not want to stop celebrating it every year.
Photos: Edgary Rodriguez R. and Toni Rivera