There is no Venezuelan dish that is made with more love than the hallacas. Preparing them takes many hours and the whole family is involved in the process: there are those who wash the leaves, those who chop the ingredients and the most important role is for the person who has enough experience to make the stew. Then comes the task of assembling, decorating and tying the banana leaf with a cotton string.
When families are separated by borders, neighbors and friends gather to help with the preparation. And that is the beauty of the hallaca, the moments that are shared to prepare them lovingly fuel the Christmas tables. The hallacas have a base of corn flour, with a stew of vegetables and meats, in addition raisins, stuffed green olives and capers are added.
No Venezuelan can eat hallacas for only a day or two; they are made in large quantities and frozen to be enjoyed for weeks. Preparing them is a ritual and the sampling involves a protocol that includes untying them so that the leaves serve as a bed for the succulent dish.
Other stars on the menu are the ‘Pan de Jamón’ (ham bread), which also has bacon, stuffed green olives and raisins, the chicken salad, the papaya sweet, the black roast, the pork leg, the black cake and the cream punch. The combination of all of these makes the Venezuelan Christmas and the holidays are incomplete without most of these elements.
At this time of the year, there is usually a pause in the problems affecting Venezuelans, but nothing is normal in Venezuela at present. Hyperinflation no longer allows many to give themselves the nostalgic pleasures of the past, like the table full of food for the guests, the gifts and the new clothes.
Inside the country, Venezuelans do what they can to survive and that is why many traditions are being lost, but nobody wants to miss out on hallaca and a piece of ham bread, even though the olives are expensive. Somehow, many manage to have a happy Christmas with less than before but without completely giving up their favorite things.
Those who are abroad continue the traditions, gathering with family or friends to cook and celebrate. Venezuelans tend to congregate around different cultures to show them their typical dishes. In this way, many people from all over the world have been delighted with the Christmas gastronomy of Venezuela, because those born here cannot cook for only two or three, they need to share their table.
Music, gifts and superstitions
The radio stations change their programming before December. Music and dance are an essential part of Christmas for Venezuelans. The oldest traditions have sounds of Aguinaldos and Parrandas, in which the maracas, the cuatro and the drum intervene, but also the Zulian Gaitas have become essential for the festivities.
The musical group Guaco knew how to give a twist to the Gaitas, creating a musical genre of their own. Their rhythms are present at the most important parties and concerts, with a sound that has transcended Christmas and borders, even conquering the Japanese. Everyone here knows what Guaco is, because it is simply synonymous with Venezuelanness, celebration and dance.
Meanwhile, the gifts are not only brought by Santa Claus, they also come from the Baby Jesus on December 25 and later, on January 6, from the Three Kings, because Venezuelans celebrate everything, uniting both the Catholic traditions and the customs of each region with events on special dates. Additionally, in each house, the Christmas tree and the manger are assembled and the decorations include reindeer, Santa, Christmas lights and religious figures.
On December 24th and 31st, dinner is important but, after eating, the celebrations extend until the early hours. In recent years, the economic situation has led many to cut costs and this year that is joined by the problems caused by the coronavirus, which has impacted world economies while also creating doubt about the best way to wish everyone a happy new year.
The hugs at the dawn of 2021 may be suppressed and probably the celebrations will be smaller. But for many Venezuelans, especially the most superstitious ones, it will always be essential to eat the 12 grapes of wishes with the last 12 bells of the year, to wear yellow underwear for good luck, to greet the new year with money in their right hand and to go out with a suitcase to guarantee travels ahead.
2020 has been a difficult year for people all over the world. This year’s holidays can be nostalgic. For Venezuelans, in addition to the pandemic, there is the sorrow associated with the inability to share the time with family. We can give ourselves permission to feel the sadness and to reflect on the experiences of 2020, but at the same time, each one of us can allow ourselves to be happy and enjoy life, hoping that next year will be much better and will bring us new opportunities.
Image credit: JR Ferrer Paris